5 Days in Santa Marta, Colombia
The view from the gazebo at Cabo San Juan Beach.
Santa Marta is a lovely Caribbean coastal city with plenty of bars/restaurants to visit and a large marketplace to purchase local foods and other authentic Colombian treats. However, Santa Marta is really a gateway city to three of northern Colombia's gems.
Spend two days in Tayrona National Park
Tayrona National Park is an amazing adventure! I’m so glad I did my research and we were able to go here - my regret is that we didn’t stay longer.Getting there: head to the Santa Marta Central Market area/bus terminal and take a bus to Palomino. It’s going to cost about 7 pesos and the ride is about 35 km. If you’re leaving from Taganga there is a boat that leaves every morning and will cost you about $15 US.
Getting in: will cost about $15 US and the front gate is open from 8am - 5pm. Bring your passport - they check at the gate! You will be passing through a security area that checks bags for illegal contraband like alcohol and weed. If you’re creative and sneaky you could sneak some stuff in - the folks we saw who got caught with alcohol just had to throw it out in the trash cans and didn’t get in any trouble.
The Hike
Pack light because it can be a dozy. I wish we had just kept our previous AirBnB an extra night as storage because I had to march the full 5 hour hike with all our gear. The hike is gorgeous in itself. You’ll be going entirely through the jungle and you won’t be alone so don’t worry about getting lost. Part of it is going through switchbacks on stairs as you climb vertically over the oceanside cliffs - it’s all stairs so you won’t be bouldering or anything. On your way back down you’ll hit the beach part of the trail, which will last about 60-90 mins. That part is tough with a lot of weight on you so again, pack lightly.
The Beaches
When you finally arrive at the first beach you’re going to be so happy! The long, hot, hike is over! The water is so blue! Dive in, unpack, relax, you’ve made it! Nope! Just kidding! Definitely cool off but don’t stop at the first beaches. Keep going until you get to Cabo San Juan, which is the photo opp you came for! All the beaches get pretty crowded but not like a public beach or anything. You’ll just have plenty of opportunities to make friends either in the campsites, at the beach, or at the watering hole. Where to stay: the main beach area is government owned and fills up fast. Campsites and hammocks are available and space in the cliffside gazebo of Cabo San Juan Beach is pretty much first come, first serve.
There are other campsites in Tayrona but they are privately owned by the local tribe so you’ll need to go through them. Amenities: there is a restaurant that serves food and drinks (including alcohol) at the main beach but it is expensive so pack water and snacks with you (security won’t take that). I cannot vouch for all the private campsites but the one we stayed at did have a bar area to get drinks - no food though.
What to Bring
Pack water and snacks. Hiking sandals. Aquasocks. If you’re camping then bring your tents and all the obvious essentials. If you’ve got a hammock then bring a blanket because the ocean air can become chilly in the evenings. Obviously you’ll want to bring bug spray as well.
And most importantly, I would plan on bringing about $50-100 US in cash:
$15 park entry fee
$5-15 to get there - double it to get back
If you’re buying food and drink plan for about $5-15 per meal and $3-5 per beer.
Stop over at Taganga Beach
Taganga is such a cool hidden gem. In fact, I would actually recommend staying here over Santa Marta. It’s on the other side of a mountainous peninsula so it actually feels like you’re driving into another city when you’re taking the 30 minute ride from Santa Marta. As the crow flies, Taganga is just a few miles away but you have to take some windy roads to get there. When you arrive in Taganga you’ll be coming downhill and you’ll get the perfect photo opp of this small bay village/town. Taganga is a local and backpacker secret. The beach and the hostels are very hip, you’ll see a lot of gringos with dreadlocks and tie dye shirts with tattoos. It’s cool and a great launching point for a Tayrona National Park Trip.
Enjoy a Day in Minca
Minca is about 40 minutes inland from Santa Marta and is an adorable place to stay for 2 nights. Minca is higher up in altitude and is known for its jungle coffee and chocolate tours and its giant hammock at Casa Elemento. There are several waterfall swimming holes that you can hike to and spend the day if you’re not big on coffee or chocolate and there are a few places to wet your whistle as well, Minca even has a tasty craft brewery: The Nevada Cervacari.
The Lost City (Ciudad Perdida)
This is the highlight of the gateway trips from Santa Marta. Unfortunately, we did not make it there (this time). However, we wanted to make sure we flagged it for you to do your own research and potentially add it to the itinerary. The multi-day hike is often compared to Machu Picchu without all the hype. If you’re a rugged traveler and lost experiences then I highly recommend looking into it.
Advice from a Local
A former colleague of mine’s nephew in law was born and raised in Bogota. He gave me a few pointers before my first trip that I thought I would share here with you. He mainly focused on the Caribbean coast with his advice.
Drink Aguardiente. Also, rum is very popular in the caribbean. Colombia is known for its fruits, and fruit juice is ubiquitous.
Play some Tejo - I’ll let Anthony Bourdain explain.
Make sure you eat
Arepas
Bandeja Paisa
Ajiaco Santafereño
Sancocho
In Santa Marta you can visit La Quinta de Bolivar, which is where Simon Bolivar died.
Ciudad Perdida is like Machu Picchu without all the hype.
La Guajira is the furthest north region of Colombia bordering Venezuela. This region is highlighted by desert terrain and features several sand dunes that you can ATV across, the Wayuu indigenous tribe, which happens to have descended from Africa, and even areas where you can view flamingos! The area can be difficult to get to and some tours have been known to scam unsuspecting customers so do your due diligence before booking.