One Week in Oahu, Hawaii
The Hawaiin Island of Oahu beautifully blends together urban functionality with natural escapism. It’s one of those rare tropical paradises that has extremely modern infrastructure and amenities - honestly, despite being in the US, I almost felt an element of culture shock. I’m just not used to such accessible natural beauty. In less than an hour, you can go from the Hawaiin capital of Honolulu, a legitimate US city (basically Miami-light), to the quintessential surf towns of Haleiwa or Lanikai Beach. The beaches were world-class in quality and Oahu isn’t lacking in the quantity of them. Because it’s so incredibly easy to get around, Oahu feels very compact. In this blog, I’ll give you a few different itineraries that may seem overwhelming at first glance but you’ll be shocked at how much you can get done in a day.
We spent about 8 days working east coast hours in Oahu, which ended up working in our favor - waking up at about 4am and getting off around noon or 1pm gave us full afternoons and our weekends to explore the entirety of the island and I think it was more than enough time - we knocked out about 80-90% of the things on my list.
I’ll be dividing this post into three 1-2 day itineraries based solely on geography, which is more or less exactly how we did Oahu. If renting a car and seeing the entire island sounds more like work and less like a vacation to you then I’ll flag a few individual places that I recommend making basecamp for the week to relax.
Let’s start with the basics…
Getting to Oahu
Getting to Oahu is relatively straightforward. We flew in from the east coast of the US - a 14-hour flight from Washington DC (IAD) into Honolulu (HNL) with a layover in Chicago. The flight set us back about $550 each in November. If you’re flexible with dates we’ve seen some pretty crazy deals for under $400 (and even some under $300) from the east coast.
Getting around Oahu
I recommend getting a car over a moped if you plan on exploring the entire island. Otherwise, if you’re really only visiting one or two regions then a moped is probably fine. Be aware that the highways through the center of Oahu and heading west from Honolulu are true highways so if driving a moped on that makes you squeamish then opt for the car. If you head east or north then the roads aren’t too crazy. Kamehameha Highway, which hugs the northern coastline, is very manageable on a moped.
We found the rental cars at the major brands to be crazy expensive for the week so we took a chance on the Toro App, which is basically AirBnB for cars. We found a 2018 Kia Soul in Honolulu for about $350 for the week ($50/day). It’s worth a shot if you’re having trouble finding a good deal as we did. Parking in Honolulu and around the island was surprisingly accommodating, we rarely ran into issues - the lone standout was visiting Giovanni’s Shrimp Shack at lunchtime in Haleiwa.
Where to stay in Oahu
In my opinion, there are three main locations to look at for your trip to Oahu and they efficiently fall into the categories of urban, suburban, and rural (surf village).
The urban option is obviously Honolulu. It's a true city with world-class restaurants and bars, parks and beaches, easily accessible, great shopping (albeit a bit higher end), and great people watching. Waikiki is more touristy and right on the water - you’ll have accessibility to everything you need within walking distance. If you’re younger and perhaps looking to save a few bucks while also being a trendier area then look at the Kaimuki neighborhood, which we found to be young and lively. It felt like a small college neighborhood.
We stayed in a pretty dumpy hotel on Waikiki (probably cheaped out a bit too much if you ask me) but for good reason…
An embarrassing guilty pleasure “travel hack” from Pep: I really enjoy sitting through timeshare presentations - I don’t know why. I’ll never actually buy one but there is something about creating a new identity with a fake backstory that feels so comically amusing to me. It feels like I’m walking in with a satirical fake mustache and talking in a funny voice - like the travel version of two kids in a trenchcoat sneaking into an R-rated movie. You might be asking yourself; why the fuck are you telling me all this, Pep? Well, it’s because a standard marketing practice for timeshare presentations is to offer vacation packages to prospects just for sitting through them. The timeshare companies are legally obligated to give you your vacation whether you purchase a timeshare or not. So this particular Hawaiian vacation was actually the result of sitting through a 3-hour timeshare presentation on Hilton Head Island (3 days paid for by the timeshare company) - we had our choice of Hawaiin vacation, Alaska cruise, Mexican resort, or a Caribbean cruise - shit, they also threw in 3 nights in Sedona just for shits and giggles. So we got 3 nights in Hilton Head, a week in Oahu, and 3 nights in Sedona all for sitting through a 3 hour timeshare presentation and saying “no” the entire time (sidenote: I don’t lie about my income or anything super unethical - just sometimes I’ll be a pimp from Oakland or a cowboy from Arizona).
So we stayed in a pretty dumpy hotel in Honolulu. But the location was perfect - right on Waikiki Beach. BUT IT WAS FREEEEEEE. So whatever.
Alright, well I just digressed as a true ADHD adult would.
Let’s get back to the point of this section.
The suburban location (the middle ground) is Kailua and Lanikai Beach. Both Kailua and Lanikai are located on the northeastern part of the island and the area is absolutely stunning. Probably the best literal beach on the island (at least for lounging). Kailua has everything you need - bars/restaurants, big box stores like Target, grocery stores like Whole Foods - it’s an actual town where folks live.
The real draw of Kailua is Lanikai Beach - it’s a wealth area with a large beachfront park that overlooks two remote islands that double as migratory bird sanctuaries. The beach is public but this is a neighborhood for the wealthy so they don’t make it easy for outsiders. You can park along the streets if you can find space but otherwise you may have to park in the designated areas for Kailua Beach Park and take the 10-15 minute walk on the beach or the road to Lanikai.
Your more rural location is Haleiwa. Haleiwa is a beautiful surfing village on the north shore of Oahu. It has more or less one commercial street, highlighted by the Food Truck Parking lot with the world-famous Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck. Out of the three locations we recommend staying in - Haleiwa is definitely the best for a true Robinson Crusoe beach experience.
Our 3 Oahu Itineraries
Scroll down to read through our three main routes. The east side and North Shore are your more touristy locations. I recommend sticking to those especially if you’re short on time. The southwest side of the island beyond Pearl Harbor has fewer tourist amenities and might not be for everyone (that’s not to say it’s without merit - the best whale watching on Oahu is at Ka’Ena Point).
East Side
North Shore
West Side
South/East Side (Honolulu and Lanikai)
Go here for:
Best beaches in Oahu
Convenience and luxury
Outdoors things to do in Oahu (east-side)
I just said it but Lanikai Beach is probably the best beach in Oahu but we are really splitting hairs on this one. There are so many gorgeous beaches but what set Lanikai apart for me was its convenience and comfort - the sand portion of the beach is very large and despite being a globally known beach it never felt crowded. Of course, there were other people but it still felt relatively exclusive. Then add in the perfectly clear calm water at the perfect temp with views of the Mokulua Island Bird Sanctuary off the shore all make Lanakai a perfectly solid beach on every metric.
One of my favorite hikes of the trip was the Koko Crater Railway. It’s super straightforward but it’s a serious quad burner! The trail is an abandoned railroad track that goes straight up a steep mountain - and when I say steep - I mean STEEP! It doesn’t seem like much from the base but this trail doesn’t mess around. We had to stop multiple times to regain our strength and there is very little respite from the sun. There is one small portion of the trail where you’re essentially walking over a 20-foot drop while balancing on a railroad tie for about 50-60 feet (there is a detour for those who don’t want to risk life and limb).
A great workout with an amazing 360 view of Oahu at the top - a must-do for anyone looking to be active on their trip.
3. We missed out on Kualoa Ranch mainly due to the price of a tour - however, there is no denying that it is one of the most interesting places on Oahu. A true tourist trap, Kualoa Ranch gained global notoriety as being one of the main backdrops for the Jurassic Park movies. However, even without its cinematic claim to fame, its one of the most gorgeous locations in all of the US - we didn’t have to go in to know that - you can see the mountains and parts of the valley from the outside (see the first image in this blog - that’s the perimeter of Kualoa in the background). They offer many tour variations from ATVing and biking to ziplining and Jurassic-themed tours.
4. Diamond Head State Monument is a very easy hike to the rim of a volcanic cone, overlooking Honolulu. What makes Diamond Head an interesting hike is the infrastructure of the first military base in Hawaii, Ft Ruger. The hike is fully paved with various staircases and man-made tunnels that take you to the top where you can get a full 360 view of the surrounding areas. Parking can be difficult - the parking lot was actually full when we arrived in the mid-afternoon so we parked at the Kapi’olani Community College without any issues.
5. The Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden was a perfect first stop on our Oahu adventure. This scenic garden contains a variety of tropical plants from all over the globe grouped by region. But it can be difficult to focus on the gorgeous vegetation with the stunning backdrop of the Koolau Mountain Range overtaking every photo. The gardens are free to enter and are just 30 minutes from Honolulu. We parked at the visitor center and walked through the whole thing but you do have the option to drive from end to end if you want to make it snappy.
6. Sherwood Beach is highly recommended and just a short drive east of Lanikai Beach. It might be worth the visit but Lanikai Beach is viewed as one of the top beaches in the world so if you can only pick one or you just want to really enjoy the beach we would recommend opting for Lanikai.
7. If you’re looking for the best spot on Oahu to see a sunrise, look no further than the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail on the easternmost tip of the island. The trail is completely paved and there is a pretty large parking lot - however, even at sunset (when we visited), we were forced to park on the entrance road with many other cars.
8. Kahana Bay Beach Park is probably the most scenic place on the North Shore and OF COURSE we don’t have any of our own photos anywhere. This gorgeous bay/cove is surrounded by lush tropical forests and volcanic mountains. Located right off of Kamehameha Hwy, on the north side of the Kualoa Ranch, Kahana Bay is very easy to access and is a must for anyone visiting Oahu. Kahana definitely has a claim to the best beach on Oahu - like I said at the start of this section, it really is splitting hairs when comparing these beaches.
Bonus: The Pali Scenic Overlook is a nice quick stop on your way from Honolulu toward Kailua and Lanikai.
Where to eat in Oahu (east-side)
Leonard’s Bakery
Diet be damned. If you’re in Honolulu then you need to stop by Leonard’s and try their various jelly-filled donuts. Pictured here are Guava, Macadamia, Dobosh (chocolate), Sugar, and Cinnamon Sugar (x2).
That Guava was so fucking good, people. I’m not messing around.
The Sunrise Shack was a daily staple for us every morning. I’m an acai bowl addict and the Sunrise Shack killed it every morning. They’ve also got some solid local coffee to start the day. Definitely recommend it if you’re looking to start the day quickly and get out of Honolulu proper.
The Island Brew Coffee House can be found in a few locations in Honolulu but if you’re working for the day and in need of WiFi plus some Hawaiian ambiance then I recommend the short drive outside the city to the location off of Keahole St, near Diamond Head. It’s right on the water and has a pleasant overall vibe. The food is best described as good coffee shop food (sandwiches and pastries).
Brick Fire Tavern
You probably aren’t going to Hawaii with pizza on your mind but Brick Fire Tavern is well worth your time. Located in the lively Kaimuki neighborhood, Brick Fire Tavern was one of the best meals we had on our trip (and that’s saying something).
Cowcow’s Tea is a very nice little treat after your trip to Brick Town Tavern and is also located in the Kaimuki neighborhood. I consider myself to be a bit of a Bubble Tea snob (Taro with bubbles all day) and Cowcow’s checked all my boxes.
Roy’s in Hawaii was one of Nicole’s guilty pleasures growing up in New York City. Birthdays, graduations, anniversaries, etc. were celebrated at the New York location of Roy’s, which has since closed down. But the original location can be found just outside Honolulu. It’s a little bit more upscale than places we typically write about however, jeans and a short sleeve button-down will suffice. Named after famed chef Roy Yamaguchi, Roy’s serves an eclectic fusion of Japanese dishes with a Hawaiian flare.
BEST DINNER ALERT - There is no way around it, Ramen Nakamura is a literal must for ramen lovers. An extremely authentic experience from start to finish. When you enter Ramen Nakamura you sit around a bar area next to the other patrons and order directly from the server in the middle - it’s a great nuance that lets you “mmm” and “ahh” with your neighbors. The line/wait can get pretty long (we waited for about an hour) so get there early or late. However, if you do happen to catch them during the rush just put your name in and do some window shopping around Waikiki.
BEST LUNCH ALERT - Obviously, Hawaii has strong Japanese influences throughout the state, which is great for us tourists because the Japanese food there was some of the best I’ve ever had in my life. Grab lunch at Marukame Udon Waikiki. We went HAM on the menu and probably came close to getting one of everything (sadly, I’m not exaggerating). Don’t be too intimidated by the long line, they move you through pretty quickly with the cafeteria-style ordering.
Recommended Oahu Driving Itineraries: Day 1 & 2
North Shore, Oahu Itinerary
Go here for:
Serenity
Adventure
Surfing
Turtles
Outdoor things to do in Oahu (North Shore)
Waimea Valley/Falls
Stretching from the mountains to the sea, the Waimea Valley is a lush valley with a diverse troipical garden ending with swimable waterfall. The pathway from the entrance to the end (the waterfall) will take about 30 minutes to walk and is totally worth taking your time to literally small the roses.
Carve out at least 2-3 hours to explore this gardens and swim in the waterfall (go mid-day since the valley can obstruct the sun - per our photos). When we visited they were also throwing an authentic Luau that we could have paid extra to attend but unfortunately, we had other plans - so look up their schedule of events on their website.
Admissions are $25 for adults and $14 for children. Hours are 9-5 on weekdays. Bring a couple of extra bucks to tip the lifeguards at the waterfall.
The best place we found for Sea Turtles that we found was easily Laniakea Beach, which makes sense since I’m learning just now that is also known as Turtle Beach. We stopped at Laniakea more or less by luck. We were driving along on our way to Haleiwa and noticed a large number of cars/people so we decided there must be something worth seeing. Sure enough, a giant sea turtle was sitting on the beach laying its eggs in the sand. It was too cool! Who knew sea turtles got that big?! It had to have been four feet long and three feet wide. Absolutely massive! But aside from the opportunity to see sea turtles, the North Shore is known for its surfing beaches - definitely a different vibe than the beaches of Lanikai and Sherwood on the east side of the island.
Haleiwa is where the world slows down. This tiny town on the North Shore of Oahu really only spans about a mile or two (at most) from end to end. Haleiwa is where you go to rent a house and get away for a while - there aren’t raging clubs or wild parties, no massive grocery stores, no Target or Wal-Mart - just a quiet surfing village with some authentic restaurants and amazing beach life. Aside from the surfing, the big draw in Haleiwa is the food truck lot, which features the world-famous Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck.
Other beach locations to consider that came highly recommended by locals and other tourists were Kawela Bay Beach Park (near the Turtle Bay Resort) and Ke Iki Beach/Sharks Cove (beaches of Haleiwa).
Places to eat in Oahu (North Shore)
Teds Bakery is your breakfast/lunch bakery on the North Shore. It has everything from amazing pastries to Hawaiian BBQ and shrimp dishes that will knock your socks off. You can’t go wrong stopping at Ted’s Bakery anytime morning or afternoon.
Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck
Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck is one of the most well-known food stops in Hawaii. Nestled in the food truck lot at the westernmost end of the small town of Haleiwa, Giovanni’s draws massive crowds and long lines but it’s well worth the hastle to get there. Pictured on the left are the scampi and the spicy dishes - both were amazing.
Don’t let the low 4 stars on Google fool you into thinking this is a tourist trap - most people are just complaining about the wait.
If going to touristy Giovanni’s isn’t up your alley then we’ve got a dark horse candidate for best shrimp on the island: Fumi’s Kahuku Shrimp. Fumi’s is very similar to Giovanni’s - honestly it’s splitting hair to compare them. We 100% recommend grabbing them both and throwing your vote in the ring - nobody else says this but I’ll go ahead and claim that Fumi’s vs Giovanni’s is Oahu’s Pat’s vs Gino’s. Fumi’s is cash only so come prepared!
Matsumoto Shaved Ice is often regarded as the best-shaved ice on Oahu. Hawaiin Shaved Ice is known for being made with condensed milk to give it a more smooth/sweet taste than other shaved ice varieties - but you can also get different flavors to give it that classic shaved ice taste. There are shaved ice places all over Hawaii - if you’re in Haleiwa then we recommend Matsumoto’s.
Ko Hana Distillers is a great way to cap off a North Shore road trip (we do not advocate drinking and driving). This rum distillery uses native Hawaiin sugarcane to produce small batch, farm-to-table, Agricole rum. The distillery is small but she is mighty. Their mixed rum drinks are strong but delicious - a tasting and tour will set you back about $25 and I recommend both. We were able to walk right in and do a tour but it sounded like there are days where it would be wise to book in advance.
Recommended North Shore Driving Itinerary
West Side, Oahu Itinerary
Go here for:
True local experience
Whale watching
Outdoor things to do in Oahu (West Side)
Call us blasphemers but we didn’t make it to Pearl Harbor. It’s so hard to see an entire island in a week and we decided that the amount of time needed to see Pearl Harbor was too much. But that being said, here are some details if the allure of history is too great for you to resist.
Hours: 7am to 5pm
Distance to Honolulu: 15-20 min drive
Cost: Free for all: visitor center, two museums, and USS Arizona Memorial
We were told by many locals that the best snorkeling on the west/south side of Oahu was at a place called Electric Beach. Electric Beach gets its name from the nearby Hawaiian Electric Kahe Power Plant and while that might sound scary, the locals were totally right! The heat produced by the power plant attracts a frenzy of fish to the area and while the ocean was pretty rough on the day were visited (stormed about 3 hours after we left) the abundance of fish was absolutely nuts. You’ll also see a ton of locals fishing for lunch/dinner right outside the powerplant - so you know it’s legit. This stop was totally on a whim based on recommendations of some random dude we chatted up the day before. It’s not the most scenic beach but it’s a short drive from Honolulu and the underwater sights are top-notch.
The westernmost tip of Oahu is Ka’Ena Point State Park. This jagged/rough volcanic stretch of coastline serves as a home to diverse Hawaiian wildlife, such as humpback whales, dolphins, seals, and tons of seabirds. The hike could be considered pretty easy for just about anyone without severe mobility issues - the trail isn’t paved but it’s flat enough from the park entrance to the tip of the island. If you’re entering from the east, as we did, then there is really only one direction to go - the trail hugs the coastline at the bottom of a cliff. It’s a great way to spend a relatively quiet and peaceful afternoon and its an overall change of scenery from the rest of the island.
Places to eat in Oahu (West Side)
Countryside Cafe
The Countryside Cafe was a recommendation from a local. If you want a true Hawaiian breakfast - like true true - then stop here on your way to Ka’Ena Point. Here you can get your spam, pork, ham, bacon, and any other part of the pig that you want, all for about as cheap as you’ll find on the island.
On your way back stop by The Beach House by 604. It’s a blue-collar beachside bar with great drinks and good enough apps. You won’t be writing home about this one but we found it to be a perfect stopgap/watering hole on the trip back to Honolulu from Ka’Ena Point.